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The survival of Swiss watches

This piece doesn't just recount the history of timekeeping; it exposes a profound market failure where the most precise instrument in history nearly killed the industry that built it. Works in Progress argues that the survival of Swiss watchmaking wasn't a triumph of engineering, but a radical pivot to selling human imperfection in an age of digital perfection. For busy leaders watching how legacy industries adapt to disruption, the story of how a brand was saved by refusing to be the best at its original job is a masterclass in strategic repositioning.

The Great Disruption

The narrative begins not with a victory, but with a near-death experience. The piece sets the scene in April 1984, describing two men sleeping in a car park in Basel, pitching a brand that had all but vanished. "The Swiss watch industry is in a tailspin, disrupted by a new technology, the quartz wristwatch, that has left Switzerland's traditional watchmakers obsolete." This framing is crucial because it strips away the romanticism of the industry to reveal a brutal economic reality: Japanese factories were producing watches that were faster, cheaper, and more precise. The data is stark. "Over half of Switzerland's watch companies collapse. Two thirds of its watchmaking jobs disappear."

The survival of Swiss watches

The article effectively uses the history of the "Quartz crisis" to illustrate how a superior technology can destroy a market leader. It notes that while the Swiss had dominated the market for centuries, winning every chronometry competition from 1907 onwards, they failed to see the threat until it was too late. The piece highlights a critical strategic error: the Swiss had set up an industrial laboratory to study quartz but "did not pursue it as doggedly as Seiko." This oversight allowed a competitor to leverage the piezoelectric effect—where crystals vibrate at a precise frequency when charged—to create a movement that was mathematically superior to the mechanical escapement.

"The quartz timekeeper is a superior instrument in terms of both precision and price, and is bound to win out."

This quote, attributed to historian David Landes, captures the prevailing wisdom of the era. It was a rational conclusion based on the metrics of the time: accuracy and cost. Critics might note that Landes' prediction seemed inevitable because the industry was measuring success by the wrong variables. By focusing solely on functional precision, the Swiss missed the emerging value of emotional resonance. The piece suggests that the industry's survival depended on realizing that a watch was no longer just a tool for measuring time, but a vessel for human identity.

The Pivot to Artistry

The turning point arrives with the acquisition of Blancpain by Jean-Claude Biver and Jacques Piguet. The article details their audacious strategy: to reject the very technology that was destroying them. "Biver developed a theory: Swiss watchmaking could survive only by rejecting quartz and doubling down on high-end, handmade mechanical watches." This was a counter-intuitive move in a market that was racing toward efficiency. While Seiko was slashing power consumption and adding calculators, Biver was positioning his brand as the antithesis of the machine.

The piece brilliantly contrasts the utilitarian origins of the wristwatch with this new philosophy. Historically, watches were tools for war and industry; the Rolex Submariner was "standard military issue for Royal Navy divers." But Biver saw that in a world where machines were taking over, the premium would shift to the work of human hands. The slogan they devised was a direct challenge to the era's logic: "Since 1735, there has never been a quartz Blancpain watch. And there never will be."

This argument lands because it reframes the product entirely. Instead of competing on accuracy, they competed on the narrative of craftsmanship. The article notes that "Biver's philosophy was that watches are not just functional tools but artistic objects, designed not merely to tell the time, but to convey something about the wearer." This shift from utility to artistry is the core of the modern luxury watch market. It is a lesson in how to survive a technological singularity: do not try to out-engineer the machine; become the human alternative.

"That famous quartz precision became the enemy, and the mechanical imperfection became the selling point."

While the piece makes a compelling case for this pivot, it glosses over the immense risk involved. Betting the entire industry on the idea that consumers would pay thousands for a device that loses seconds per day, when a dollar battery could keep perfect time, was a gamble on human psychology that could have easily failed. The success of this strategy relied on a cultural shift that wasn't guaranteed. Yet, as the article shows, the gamble paid off, transforming the Swiss watch industry from a manufacturing sector into a luxury powerhouse.

Bottom Line

The strongest part of this argument is its clear demonstration that technological superiority does not guarantee market dominance when the definition of value changes. The piece's biggest vulnerability is its focus on the success of the pivot without deeply exploring the thousands of workers and smaller firms that were left behind in the transition. For the reader, the takeaway is clear: in the face of disruptive innovation, the most powerful strategy may be to stop trying to be the best at the old game and start defining a new one where your unique strengths are the only metrics that matter.

Deep Dives

Explore these related deep dives:

  • Quartz crisis

    The article centers on how Swiss watchmaking nearly collapsed due to Japanese quartz technology in the 1970s-80s. This Wikipedia article provides the full historical context of this pivotal industry disruption.

  • Piezoelectricity

    The article explains how quartz crystals vibrate when electrically charged (the Curie brothers' discovery), but readers would benefit from deeper understanding of this phenomenon that revolutionized timekeeping.

  • Railway time

    The article mentions the 1847 standardization of British railway time as a key driver of watch demand. This topic explores how railroads fundamentally changed humanity's relationship with precise timekeeping.

Sources

The survival of Swiss watches

This article originally appeared in the first print issue of Works in Progress, which subscribers received last week. Subscribe to get six full-color editions sent bimonthly, plus invitations to our subscriber-only events.

It’s April 1984. Two men are sleeping in a car park in Basel. Each morning they wake, leave their borrowed Volkswagen Westfalia, and wash in the train station toilets. Then they go to their new stand at the Basel fair: the high point of the watch industry’s annual calendar. Their stand is arresting: every case is empty. With only two models to show, probably better not to show them at all. Instead, the pair focus on pitching the great and the good of the Swiss watch industry. If anyone asks them where they’re staying, they’ll say the Hilton.

The two men are Jacques Piguet, born into a family of watchmakers; and Jean-Claude Biver, a disgruntled ex-exec from Omega. The plan is to relaunch Blancpain, a brand they’d acquired in 1981 but had yet to bring back to life. The move is somewhat audacious: the Swiss watch industry is in a tailspin, disrupted by a new technology, the quartz wristwatch, that has left Switzerland’s traditional watchmakers obsolete.

Japanese factories are churning out watches that are faster, cheaper, and more precise than the Swiss mechanicals could ever hope to be. Over half of Switzerland’s watch companies collapse. Two thirds of its watchmaking jobs disappear. But Swiss watchmaking isn’t dead yet, and a handful of people are about to snatch it from obsolescence.

From the city to the mountains.

The story of Swiss watchmaking began in Geneva in the 1540s. At the behest of John Calvin, the city imposed a ban on jewelry, the craft that had sustained Geneva’s artisans. The law, however, left one deliberate loophole: timepieces, those most practical and Protestant of devices, were still permitted to be worn. Denied their old market, the city’s artisans, joined by religious refugees from France and Italy, retooled and got to work.

At that point, despite Calvin’s strict­ures, watches remained more a curiosity than a necessity. When mathematician and astrologer Thomas Allen visited his friend, Sir John Scudamore, at the turn of the seventeenth century, and decided to bring his watch with him, a maid presumed its ticking to be the noise of the devil, and promptly threw it out of the window.

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