← Back to Library

Travel and its discontents

In an era where travel is often reduced to a checklist of Instagrammable landmarks, this piece from Natural Selections offers a startling counter-narrative: that the very act of mass tourism is eroding the authenticity it seeks to capture. The editors argue that we are witnessing a "cultural observer effect," where the presence of crowds fundamentally alters the places we visit, turning living communities into sterile exhibits. This is not merely a complaint about overcrowding; it is a profound inquiry into whether serendipitous human connection can survive the logistics of the modern travel industry.

The Paradox of Observation

The piece opens with a vivid anecdote from Barcelona—a parrot stealing pizza from pigeons—before pivoting to a sharper observation about human behavior. "Travel is not as I remember it," the editors note, setting the stage for a critique of the modern tourist experience. The core argument rests on the idea that while the number of travelers is growing, the world itself is not, leading to an inevitable saturation of historic sites. The Alhambra in Granada serves as the primary case study. Despite strict caps of 8,000 visitors per day, the Nasrid Palaces are described as being filled with "throngs shuffling. Throngs taking selfies with cameras on their phones."

Travel and its discontents

The editors suggest that this behavior creates a paradox where tourists are physically present but mentally absent, trying to "pretend that they are alone, that the other throngers do not exist." This framing is effective because it moves beyond simple annoyance at crowds to a deeper existential critique. The piece argues that "there is no way to visit a place as an outsider without bringing the outside in with you," a concept they liken to Schrödinger's cat, where the act of observation changes the observed reality. Critics might note that this perspective risks romanticizing a past where tourism was less accessible, potentially ignoring the economic benefits that visitor numbers bring to local economies. However, the editors are careful to distinguish between the presence of tourists and the nature of that presence.

"Just as has been noted in physics, wherein the act of observation itself changes that which is observed, there is no way to visit a place as an outsider without bringing the outside in with you."

The Failure of "Eco-Tourism"

The commentary deepens when it tackles the well-intentioned but often destructive nature of modern "eco-tourism." The editors recount a personal research experience in Costa Rica involving an "eco-tourist lodge" that introduced a non-native species of dart-poison frog to attract visitors. The result was the local extinction of the native species, which was "intimidated in the presence of the new, bigger, brasher species." This anecdote serves as a powerful metaphor for the broader tourism industry: the desire to curate an experience for outsiders often destroys the very ecosystem—natural or cultural—it claims to protect.

The piece extends this logic to human communities, describing the Sacromonte neighborhood in Granada, where Roma families live in caves. The editors admit, "At some level, we were gawking," acknowledging the uncomfortable reality that tourists often treat residents as part of the scenery. A guide is quoted telling a group, "there is a woman here who does not like the tourists, so stay with me. With me it is okay." This moment highlights the tension between economic necessity and personal dignity. The editors observe that while tourism brings money, "that doesn't mean that she has to like it." This is a crucial distinction often missed in policy discussions that prioritize revenue over resident well-being.

The Homogenization of Experience

Perhaps the most biting critique in the piece is its assessment of globalization's role in flattening cultural differences. The editors contrast a memory of traveling through Turkey twenty-five years ago—where they were invited into a stranger's home for a picnic and refused payment—with the current reality. "I wonder if that sort of serendipitous exchange is possible now," they ask, concluding that the world has become "too crowded, and too suspicious." The presence of global brands like McDonald's in historic towns like Ronda is cited as evidence of this homogenization. "When you are done having your mind blown, consider having a Big Mac. It will taste just like you remember," the editors write, illustrating how the safety of the familiar undermines the risk of true discovery.

The argument here is that the digital age exacerbates this issue. "If the computer in your pocket promises access to anything you might want to know, anytime you want it, you will surely lose curiosity," the piece asserts. This leads to a "flattening of cultural affect" where travelers prioritize documentation over experience. The editors advocate for the value of "not knowing," suggesting that true engagement requires sitting with uncertainty rather than immediately seeking answers online. This is a compelling call to action for a generation accustomed to instant gratification.

"People who live wholly behind their cameras may have good photographs, but they are not laying down memories of their own lives."

The Value of the Unpredictable

Despite the heavy critique, the piece finds hope in the "things we cannot predict." The editors contrast the grand, ticketed monuments like the Mezquita in Córdoba—which they acknowledge are "magical and mystical"—with the small, unscripted moments of daily life. They describe a woman sweeping with a "broom made of branches" and another carefully wrapping cakes with twine. These "small pleasures" are presented as the true gems of travel, unmediated by guides or ticket counters.

The narrative also touches on the complex history of the region, noting how the Mezquita is both a mosque and a cathedral, a "temporal mosaic" of competing faiths that have learned to coexist. This historical context reinforces the idea that "doing the civilization thing"—living among difference and disagreement—is a skill that older cultures have mastered. The editors observe that in Spain, despite occasional tensions like a fight between delivery workers, the overall atmosphere was one of people "getting along." They suggest that American cities, often fractured by polarization, might learn from these older models of coexistence.

Bottom Line

The strongest part of this argument is its refusal to let the reader off the hook; it challenges the very premise of modern tourism, suggesting that our methods of consumption are destroying the experiences we seek. Its biggest vulnerability is a potential nostalgia trap, as it romanticizes a pre-digital, pre-globalized past that may never have been as universally welcoming as remembered. Readers should watch for how this critique translates into actionable changes in travel behavior, moving beyond observation to genuine, low-impact engagement.

"It is the things we cannot predict, those things that we do not see coming and which have not already been analyzed endlessly, that are the true experiential gems.""

Sources

Travel and its discontents

On our last morning in Spain, near the beach in Barcelona, a parrot stole pizza from a flock of pigeons, flew it into a tree, and began to eat. A magpie, watching the interchange, thought he could best the parrot and take the pizza for himself. The parrot was having none of it, however, and the magpie, perhaps now feeling a bit outclassed, picked a fight with some other magpies. The three of them flew off into the city in a frenzy.

Travel is not as I remember it.

The number of people who travel is growing, but the world is not. The places, therefore, the ones from history, the places which those who think about such things will know the names of, are inherently more crowded.

One such place is the Alhambra, a great Moorish complex that began to come into being in the 9th century, and is now an immense relic in the middle of modern Granada. It was citadel, palace, and administrative center for hundreds of years, a city-fortress in which two thousand people once lived, a center of the Islamic Golden Age. Even now, empty of furnishings and the bustle of royal life, it is extraordinary. Within the Alhambra’s Nasrid Palaces (Palacios Nazariés), geometrically ornate tiles and carvings adorn every surface—floors, walls and ceilings—in wood, plaster, stucco, and ceramic, one room into the next, more and more and more, interspersed with perfect gardens.

The number of visitors to the Alhambra’s biggest draw, the Nasrid Palaces, is capped at something like 8,000 per day, which is both a lot, and a little. Tickets are sold out months in advance. Even with the earliest timeslot to enter one morning, on a chilly morning in the off-season, we are amid throngs. Throngs shuffling. Throngs taking selfies with cameras on their phones. Throngs trying to pretend that they are alone, that the other throngers do not exist. But also, throngers who are not quite sure what it is that they are supposed to be doing there, either.

Yes, of course, there has always been the tourist problem. How do we simultaneously expand our horizons, appreciate how many ways there are to be human, how many different ways there are to live, while not destroying what we seek in the process? It is a true conundrum, a cultural observer effect. Just as has been noted in physics, wherein the act ...